WhiskeySix

So far I've spent about 10x more time more watching the server than playing it - so teach me stuff!!!


1) There seems to be 342 different types of tanks - which are at the top of the food chain and which are at the bottom?

2) Munitions - I noticed there were to types of AP (armor penetrating) rounds... I assume the one with more letters is better? Are both one shot kills?

3) Armor - I assume the armor on the front of tanks is heaviest?

4) Engineers - how well do they work? Can you repair while riding on the back?

5) Supply crates - do they repair?

And now that the RTFM-noob questions are out of the way - what I'd like the thread to focus on - what are some basic and advanced tactics people have had success with in armor?

__________________

visCera

1). These are the top picks on each side (good tanks).
Brit side: M4 Sherman, M3 Grant, Crusader Mk. 3
Kraut side: Panzer Mk.IVF2, Panzer Mk.IVF1, Panzer Mk. IIIJ

2). AP rounds are used on armor targets (Vehicles and Tanks).
HEAT (High Explosive Anti-Tank) and PzGr. Rounds should only be used on tanks *in particular tough tanks* they penetrate enemy armor at any angle but damage varies on the size of the gun / distance.
HE and Canister rounds should be used on infantry and soft targets. Canister rounds are basically shotgun rounds, for tanks.

3). Front Armor is the heaviest.

4). Repairs at about the same rate as PR, but you can repair whilst on the tank.

5). Dunno if they repair, but I do know the rearm and heal infantry.

ikonic

HEAT and PzGr are on Nazi tanks only. The Panzer IIs, III's and IV's have PzGr of 20, 50 and 75mm respectively, and a variant of the Panzer IV (the grey shortbarreled one) has HEAT instead of PzGr. A Panzer II going against an M3 Grant, Sherman, or of similar armor nature will take down their health to at least HALF if the Panzer II uses all of their 20mm PzGr ammo.

Canister shots are on the M3 Stuart and M3 Grant 37mm Coaxial Turret.

Long Barreled tanks have longer shell range and firepower (and less shell drop)

20mm and 37mm shells are fitted on the light tanks and armored cars and will take down the lower tier of medium tanks. The Panzer II and armored cars have a 20mm autocannon.

40mm and 50mm are fitted on the lower tier of medium tanks and will normally 1 shot the lighter tanks, severely damage equal counterparts, and damage the top-tier of tanks (but will take ~2-6 shots). There are some 40mm Armored cars that have an Autocannon variant.

57mm and 75mm are fitted on the top tier of medium tanks and pretty much wipes out anything. 75mm PzGr and HEAT rounds from Panzer IV's and Marder III will be an instant kill. There are reports that 57mm and 75mm AP rounds may not 1 shot the top tier of tanks, but from what I have seen and done in-game (and tested on a local server) 1 shot from these shells will disable the target.

The Marder III is a 2 man tank - Driver and Weapon Operator - it is essentially a more mobile PaK 38 emplacement.

Supply Crates and Engineers repair tanks.

And here are the 342 [sic] type of tanks out there

FH2 GERMAN ARMOR WIKI
FH2 BRITISH ARMOR WIKI

__________________

WhiskeySix

ok.. now that my noobalicious craving has been satisfied.... how about some tactics/techniques/tips??

"throw me a frikin bone here..."

__________________

Steevo

Armor tactic should never be completely about just "armor"
Combined arms should have 3 phases:

1 Recon: send in soldiers and spotter planes to map the enemy postion.
2 Support: Bombard the enemy with an artillery barrage and bombing runs
3 Assault: Tanks and infantry move in and go for the cap-zone as fast as possible.
3a -Heavy tanks should move in first becouse they can take more hit and should concentrate on taking out enemy tanks and AT-Statics.
3b - Light tanks and transport should move into the enemy base and concentrate on infatry support.
3c- Infantry should focus on finding the enemy squadleaders and set up a defence, clear mines and start spotting for the enmey counterattack

__________________

WhiskeySix

good stuff, thanks steevo!

hmmm... is there any way to identify what kind of tank you're driving? or do you just have to memorize what each of the 17 (I counted) tanks look like?

__________________

OneTinSoldier

Hi guys,

One Tank I don't think I saw mentioned here is the British Matilda. The Matilda is only on a few maps, but if you are looking for a tank to drive around where you do not have to (pretty much)worry about being killed by anything other than an 88 Gun emplacement or enemy Engineer kit and AT kit Sticky Bombs/Satchels/Mines, drive the Matilda! Until the FH Devs come out with updates that add later war stuff such as the Tiger and KingTiger tanks, the Matilda is nearly invincible. I don't think the Matilda is on any map that has a long barreled Panzer IV, because that tank could give it trouble. A Panzer III has to be very skilled or fairly lucky(hit it in just the right place several times) to kill it.

It's funny when your in it just listening to shells from Pak38's, AT Rifles, and other Tanks just bounce off of it. Just avoid 88 Gun emplacements if you can, or do your best to destroy the 88 before it destroys you. You'll learn where they're at with map familiarity.

Also, be very careful when nearing an enemy flag with any tank. There are sure to be enemy Engineers or AT guys just waiting to get a sticky bomb/satchel or mine on you. If I had a nickel for every time I thought the flag was ripe for the taking(in FH1) after having cleared out a bunch of enemies from it with my tank, then move into the flag's capture radius all by myself, only to have one last yet unseen enemy come out of I don't know where to satchel my tank, I'd be pretty wealthy. Tanks almost always need infantry support in order to cap a flag.

Matilda ftw!

Donagel

Armor tactics based on my EXTREMELY limited experience.

-You need a spotter of some type. Once your in "sight mode" you are practically blind. Best is in-squad infantry with binoculars behind the action. Spotter planes are too irratic and other tanks tend to worry about their own skin once the actions starts and have the same sight limitations as you.

-Always know where the 88s are!!!! Never EVER approach(or even come remotely near) a 88 without making doubly sure that it is down. They are hands down your worst nightmare with their one shot kills, long range and incredible accuracy.

-Obviously, if you can help it, never stop moving.

-IMHO, Tanks are best deployed in two ways:
-1 squad with a tank and the rest infantry. Good for coordinated assaults, horrible at fighting other armor.
-1 squad of multiple tanks. Good for fighting other armor, horrible at rooting out infantry from a flag.
Unfortunately, Neither one is particulary good at the other.

__________________
"Democracy is the theory that the common people know what they want and deserve to get it good and hard." - H. L. Mencken

birdie_in_Texas

CRAP...now something else to download and play..! hahahaha

you guys are killin' me!!!


there are just not enough hours in the day!

__________________

Nero

So, is HEAT > AP versus tanks or are they about equal?

__________________

westyfield

I think HEAT is better but I'm not sure, I haven't had much time to test the different rounds.

__________________

tHa_KhAn

Yes. Heat and PGzr should be reserved for heavy tanks as they have the most penetration power. AP should be used for all other tanks.

__________________

westyfield

Most tanks carry more AP rounds than any other type of shell, so I use AP against jeeps and low flying aircraft as well. I haven't actually killed a plane yet...

__________________

tHa_KhAn

If you happen to have HE or HEAP rounds, use those on planes and jeeps. Most pilots are so brash they come in at a low angle on you and it is easy to score a kill.

__________________

Stalin1878

It takes a while to switch ammo types so you have to know what your going to do before you going to do it