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  • surfers are us

    Was reading some posts and noticed Project NA surfed, and was wondering how many other brothers I have here in the TG community. I have surfed since I was 9, NC coast with lots of trips to Nags head, but have been stuck in M.O. for almost 4 years, and will probably be hear for 1 more. :( I check the live cams often and I dont have to tell U other surfers out there I have a whole in my soul and cant wait to get back. Anyway hope the surf is good for U maybe ill see U in the water 1 day. :) If you got any good stories of epic days or the flats I would love to here them.

  • #2
    Re: surfers are us

    Where did you grow up Shane. Pm me if you don't want to post. I grew up less than an hour from Nags Head, and spent a lot of time there. Now I'm down on the coast next to Emerald Isle and Morhead City. Not as good waves here as Hatteras.

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    Stoop and you'll be stepped on; stand tall and you'll be shot at.

    -Carlos A. Urbizo-

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    • #3
      Re: surfers are us

      I Surfed at Cocoa Beach/Cape Canaveral for about 6 or seven years growing up. Used to go after school 2-3 times /week, and loved it. I haven't been in over 10 years though. One thing you realize is - it ain't like riding a bike! you DO forget! Last time I tried I could barely stand and couldn't turn at all!
      Best story was when Hurricane Hugo passed by us on its way to S.C. in 1989. We had 3 straight days of 18-24 foot waves. GLASSY waves since the wind was from offshore. It was like what I always pictured Hawaii to be like. Tubes you could stand in. Breaks were almost a half mile out though, so you had to paddle like hell. Day 1 we surfed- 3 1/2 hours, but with all the paddling only about 3 or 4 waves, but oh, dear god it was glorious! Day two I boogie boarded, just for the hell of it. Day three we just went to the Canaveral Pier and watched. The breaks were about 100 yards past the pier (they normally break about halfway down the pier- we were getting wet ON the pier!). it was unbelievable to see that kind of power!
      I got yer Dancing With the F**&ing Stars right here!!

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      • #4
        Re: surfers are us

        Ah gota love a place called Morehead 105.5 rocks the coast, lol love that place. I grew up in Jacksonville near Camp lejune, most of my surfing was at Topsail Island, or Wrightsville beach, I would paddle the 300 yard inlet to get to masonborro Island, broke many boards there. Surfed alot at Emerald Isle too, but you know how the east coast is, gota pay attention to the weather and wait, wait, wait for those good days. One of the things I find I miss the most is the smell of sexwax lol, dont miss the early summer rashes though. We should hook up when I make it back in a year.

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        • #5
          Re: surfers are us

          I lived in Jacksonville for years and never saw any waves worth surfing... The beaches out there are nasty, filthy things with tiny 1 foot waves most of the time. Gross.
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          • #6
            Re: surfers are us

            Yeah Cingular, the Onslow county beaches are pretty bad. Best stuff is as he said across the Masonborro Inlet, and also at some secret spots down on the south facing beaches like Holden beach, but only when the conditions were just right.

            LINKS

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            Stoop and you'll be stepped on; stand tall and you'll be shot at.

            -Carlos A. Urbizo-

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            • #7
              Re: surfers are us

              I ve got video somewhere of a solid 10 foot swells comming in at the poles on topsail back in like 88, 89 I forget which hurricane it was but man it was glassy and no close out which is a miracle cause it always seemed to close out with big surf on those sand breaks. But was 1 of my best days out. In 93 I almost drowned when me and a buddy went out to surf Hurricane Emily we had to jump off the pier to make it out, Emily was still a day away but the surf was a rageing 15 to 20, it was late and I sat in the water for an hour trying to catch a wave but it was comming in so fast it was just throwing the lip at the beach. It started getting pretty hairy and dark so I decided to just belly it in, I still fell about 10 feet on the take off and when I got to the bottom I looked up to see the wall coming down on me FKN scary lol, it slammed me and took me a good 50 yards through the wash cycle. I swam up and paddled my ass off for shore thats when the 10 ft shore break said "where are you going?" and began to pound me over and over just a few feet from shore. And it was right there I almost died there was no time and no break between sets it was scary as hell, but somehow I made it out. My friend came running over and said it was the narlyest thing he ever seen. He was the smart 1 that stayed on the beach lol good times. :)

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              • #8
                Re: surfers are us

                Originally posted by CingularDuality View Post
                I lived in Jacksonville for years and never saw any waves worth surfing... The beaches out there are nasty, filthy things with tiny 1 foot waves most of the time. Gross.
                I wonder if we ever met Cingular, I graduated from Southwest Onlsow in 93, I was freinds with alot of people from different schools. Worked at buzz Jr for a while doing tattoos, use to go to the clubs in Greenville, **** through out a name and odds are good I know them.

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                • #9
                  Re: surfers are us

                  Originally posted by Shane View Post
                  I wonder if we ever met Cingular...
                  Doubtful. My only social life while in J'ville was with TG and my fellow geek coworkers when we had drunken LAN parties. I was there from '99 to '03.
                  Become a supporting member!
                  Buy a Tactical Duck!
                  Take the world's smallest political quiz! "I was touched by His Noodly Appendage."
                  TacticalGamer TX LAN/BBQ Veteran:

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                  • #10
                    Re: surfers are us

                    Originally posted by MrTango View Post
                    it ain't like riding a bike! you DO forget! Last time I tried I could barely stand and couldn't turn at all!
                    hahahaha so true... though for me it was more just being out of 'surfing shape'. We'd mostly surf second beach in Newport, RI, but once I moved away for school, and then got a job and kids, doing anything impromptu became pretty much impossible. Last time I went it was chest high and cold and I got worked :icon_lol: by the time I made it out, I was wheezin pretty good and my neck and shoulders were burning :icon_lol:

                    I did manag to catch two waves but they both closed out right away... slept good that night ;)

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